[or-roots] inexpensive headstones
Steve & Ronda Howard
whizinc at comcast.net
Sun Nov 16 14:15:28 PST 2008
Thanks Glen,
Here's a page from the Oregon Historic Cemeteries Commission.
http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/CenturyMemorial.htm
Ronda
Century Memorial Markers
by W. Paul Henderson
Most Oregon cemeteries have many unmarked graves or ones marked with the all
too common small metal upright marker. These rusting obstructions to mowing
left by funeral homes, seldom offer any legible information but seem to
serve as the poorest of a memorial. Sextons continually return them to a
standing position because they are all that many souls have left to show of
their time here on earth; that is if they are lucky to have any marker at
all. The Marcola (Oregon) Pioneer Cemetery Association here offers a new
consideration that is a cost effective and attractive alternative to these
rusting bits of metal.
Mr. Curtis Irish of Marcola developed this very durable method of
memorialization for our pioneer cemetery. The presentation is simply the
name, birth and death dates, stamped in to a stainless steel plate mounted
in concrete. We call this easy to maintain alternative a "Century Memorial
Marker," because we have every reason to believe it will last a hundred
years and much longer.
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/CenturyMarker.tif.TIF>
The materials that you will need for this project are:
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
14 to 16 gauge stainless steel for nameplates (approximately 3 1/2" to 4"
wide and 12" long)
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
60 lb. bag ready-mix concrete per marker
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
Portland Cement or hardness extenders (additive glues)
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
concrete form with inside measurements 11" x 13" x 6" deep
The form we used was made of a doubled 2" x 4" frame with a loose plywood
bottom. Screws or a strap can be used to hold the frame together. Keep the
screws to a minimum, because you will want to take the form apart to release
the marker later. A coating of petroleum jelly on the inside surfaces of the
form will help keep the concrete from sticking.
Tools needed for this project:
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
drill with large bits or a punch for creating holes in the anchor wings
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
burnishing wheel for drill or fine sandpaper
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
hacksaw or shears to cut stainless steel
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
large hammer
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
rubber mallet
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
concrete edging tool
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
set of alpha/numeric stamps
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
small coal chisel for dashes birth-and death dates
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
masking or duct tape
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
small combination square and a straight edge ruler
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
bending tool
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
2 heavy duty clamps
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
a piece of wood large enough to span across the stainless
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/images/awillbu1.gif>
a solid work table to clamp to or a large padded vice to avoid marring
stainless surfaces
The procedure to make a Century Memorial Marker is:
Give the face of the steel a uniform burnishing and keep the burnished grain
going in one direction. This will hide future scratches. If you prefer a
mirror finish keep a protective covering on the steel all though the
stamping process.
Make a template to use as a guide. Use a piece of paper and a typewriter or
computer to indicate where to stamp the letters and numbers. Your marker
will be more professional looking if the information is centered and the
letters properly spaced.
Center and tack down template with masking tape or duct tape.
With the stamp set and hammer, stamp over the information on your template.
Remember to always stamp the name and dates on the stainless before bending
down the anchor wings.
The faceplate of the memorial will be 6" after you bend the anchor wing down
at right angles to the face. Before bending, drill a 1" hole or several
smaller holes on each end of your stainless steel plate to assist in holding
the marker into the cement.
Bend your stainless steel 3" on each side of the faceplate and at right
angles to the faceplate using a bending tool. These bent end wings will be
used as the anchor sections. Make sure that the stainless is protected from
scratching and securely fastened while bending.
Bend over the outside corners of the anchor wings to assist in the anchoring
of the stainless steel plate into the concrete.
Premix the concrete and pour into the form. Be sure to tap the form with a
rubber mallet on all sides before and after placement of faceplate to remove
air bubbles.
Before setting the faceplate into the concrete, remove any protective
coverings and the template.
Set the stainless steel faceplate wings down into the concrete making sure
it is centered.
Use the edging tool to finish the surface of the concrete around the
faceplate, taking care not to get any on the steel. Have damp rags close by
to wipe off the faceplate as needed.
The curing of the concrete depends greatly on the temperature and humidity,
so do not be in any hurry to release the block from the form for at least a
few days.
The completed Century Memorial Marker will weigh about 65 pounds after it is
cured. It is recommended that two people move the marker around, so be
careful not to hurt your back.
The placement of the Century Memorial Marker in the cemetery will require as
shovel, a tarp or other groundcover to put the dirt on, a whiskbroom, a
spray bottle with distilled water and some rags dampened with the distilled
water for cleaning the marker. Always clean the marker in the same direction
of the burnishing because even a small grain of sand could scratch the
faceplate surface. A coat of paste wax before placement may help prevent
some of this potential scratching.
If you have any questions you may contact me, W. Paul Henderson, by e-mail
at henderson4pc at earthlink.net.
<http://www.oregoncemeteries.org/CenturyMemorial.htm>
_____
From: or-roots-bounces at listsmart.osl.state.or.us
[mailto:or-roots-bounces at listsmart.osl.state.or.us] On Behalf Of
glenkc7mbm at comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 9:09 AM
To: or-roots mail list
Subject: Re: [or-roots] inexpensive headstones
Ronda & Julie
You may check with the Oregon Historic Cemeteries Commission about
headstones, I have heard that some cemeteries that had had headstones taken
for there metal are replacing with a brick type headstone with the
information on the deceased imprinted in the brick.
And Ronda ThankYou for your veterans Thank You I am a Vietnam Veteran.
Glen Jones Portland
--
Glen A. Jones
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